Scipio Americanus

Cut a wide swathe through the heart of the city today.

I Saw:
- Renoir at the Complesso del Vittoriano-Roma: boring.
- Palazzo Venezia: small, but had some touching Byzantine Madonnas.



- Galleria Doria Pamphilj: an honor to see so many fine paintings in person. I especially enjoyed the audioguide, which ripped into some of the works ("the painter didn't have a clue... its amazing anyone thought this was worth hanging."). Caravaggio's "Rest on the Flight into Egypt" (above) was unexpectedly tender. They said that the violence he was involved in made his work darker, but seeing this early work brought that home.


photo courtesy of Lawrence OP

- Museo Del Corso: their "Il '400 A Roma" show was lovely collection of Byzantine and pre-Renaissance work. I was particularly taken by Melozzo Da Forli's work because it somehow overcame the saccharine subject matter and style. The example above looks kind of corny on the page, but in person it breathes.



- Palazzo Barberini/Galleria Nationale d'Arte Antica: Pure ecstasy. The collection is dense with masterpieces. The gem in the crown is Raphael's La Fornarina. Again, the photo doesn't do it justice. It feels absolutely contemporary. Sensuality in painting ages about as well as humor in literature - I don't find Shakespeare all that funny, but this painting is dead sexy.

The Caravaggios are among his best, there's a masterpiece in the style of Da Vinci. If you have one weekend in Rome, see this museum. I'm definitely going back to sit.

In addition to the permanent collection, the Barberini was also had a tiny show by Baronzio. Tiny - but excellent. I ended up buying the monograph for first time on this journey.

After museum hopping, I walked the streets. Reading Vasari's Lives on the steps of a fountain in Rome made me feel blessed indeed.

If I get up early enough tomorrow, I'll go to Saint Peter's for mass. It has been (infinity) years since my last confession, father.

Song of the Day: Everything But The Girl - Missing (Todd Terry Remix)